On & Off Leash Manners for YOUR Family Dog

Place & Down

If you are calling your dog to Place, do the following:

• Stand behind the place mat/bed - make sure you are close enough to it that the dog doesn’t want to overstep it and come to you - remember this: your body is a magnet!

• Make sure you are standing up straight, not using body cues, pointing, making other sounds, etc. to call your dog or get him in Place/Down.

• “Dog’s Name, Come!” - Recall your dog

• If your dog hears you, but does not come, you will tap the E-collar and repeat the command “Come”

• “Good” - As soon as your dog is in motion, give the calm verbal marker

• If your dog starts to veer directions, or slows down/gets distracted when coming to you, say the command “Come” and tap the E-collar

• If your dog makes a blatant move away from you, in another direction:

• Say “No”

• Tap the E-collar

• Give the recall command again “Come”

• Remember! Do not get caught up on the number - the number is irrelevant. Just watch your dog. The level on the collar will change depending on the intensity of the situation - the higher the distraction level, the higher the E-Collar level.

• “Place” - About 1 foot before the Place mat/bed, say the command

• If your dog overshoots (goes past the Place mat/bed) or skirts it, tap the E-collar and repeat the command “Place”

• If your dog goes too far away from the Place, recall him again and say “Place” when he’s closer to the mat/bed

• Use your body as a magnet - if your dog goes behind you, take a step over to the other side of the mat and call him/say Place

• If your dog does not lie down on the Place mat/bed, give the command “Down”

If you are putting your dog in a Down, do the following:

• Stand right where you would like your dog to lay down.

• “Dog’s Name, Come!” - Recall your dog

• If your dog hears you, but does not come, you will tap the E-collar

• “Good” - As soon as your dog is in motion, give the calm verbal marker

• If your dog starts to veer directions, or slows down/gets distracted when coming to you, say the command “Come” and tap the E-collar

• If your dog makes a blatant move away from you, in another direction:

• Say “No”

• Tap the E-collar

• Give the recall command again “Come”

• Remember! The level on the collar will change depending on the intensity of the situation - the higher the distraction level, the higher the E-Collar level

• “Down” - As soon as your dog gets to your feet (not while he is in motion), say the command

• If your dog doesn’t lie down right away, tap the button and repeat the command “Down”

Please check out the following video with a dog working at our place:

(Put a video here)

Watch this several times, noting and practicing the tone, timing, and cadence of our commands. It is important that you are familiar with this before you work with your dog on the E-collar!

Your first month after the

board & train

Basic e-collar guide

On the day of the return

Recall is calling the dog to you.

The recall command is “Dog’s Name, Come!”

As soon as your dog is in motion toward you, you can use the verbal marker “Good” to mark that he is doing the right thing.  This isn’t an over-effusive “GOOD!!!” as this will likely amp your dog up and making it harder for him to concentrate and complete the behavior unless your dog tends to be slow moving and you need to speed him up.

• If your dog hears you, but does not come, you will tap the E-collar and repeat the command “Come”.

Once your dog is in motion and interacting with you, you don’t have to use their name every time for the command - just “Come” will do.  Think of using their name as an attention-getter to get them started.

​Prong Collar

E-collar

Thresholds (doorways)

Remember - this is a strict way to live with your dog, and by no means the way that we want you to live with him forever! This is a means to an end - it is simply the first month of you renegotiating your relationship and how you live with him - check in after 30 days and see how things are going, your dog will tell you where you can turn the intensity down and he will tell you when you’ve let it slip too far by reverting to old behaviors - if that happens just tighten up again.

For 30 Days:

  • Your dog will be in command at all times (Place/Down), unless on the walk, in the crate, or having supervised play time. There will be absolutely no free wandering or roaming
  • E-Collar is on at all time when your dog is being supervised - put it on inside the crate, first thing, before he comes out of the crate. Take it off at night/when he is the crate.
  • Your dog sleeps in the crate, and is in the crate whenever unsupervised.
  • Waits for food until released with command “Break”
  • Waits at all thresholds, including going in and out of the crate
  • Is either on “Place” or in a “Down” when you are home doing regular activities – choose to use a Place/Down that is challenging for the dog, ie further away from you, not right beneath your feet.
  • “Sit” - use on the walk at curbs, thresholds, waiting for food. “Sit” means stay in the sit until told otherwise - once put into a sit, dog cannot pop up from the Sit until released or lie down.  Realize that sit is not always comfortable for extended periods of time so if you know it’s going to be a while always opt for the Down.
  • “Come” is the recall command - use to call him out of the crate, calling to and from command (Place/Down), from the backyard/play time, etc.
  • “Break” is the release command - means dog is allowed to move out of position, is free to sniff, potty, play, take a nap, and be a dog.  You can use before releasing for food, outside for play time, or any time you are relieving him from command.
  • “Let’s Go” is used through the thresholds, coming out of the crate, coming out of a car, and anywhere else where your dog isn’t in a specific heel.
  • “Heel” - your dog’s head is parallel to your hip, or a little behind you. You will always use it on the walks.   If your dogs ears are ahead of you then he is too far forward.  Although it may not seem like much, being meticulous about this position, and enforcing it diligently, is absolutely essential to having a successful walk experience.​
  • The majority of the training benefit will not come from active commands, but much more so from remaining in one position (duration exercises) for extended periods of time, while the world goes on around him because what we are teaching is self-control!

When your dog is inside the house, for the first month, he will always be in command - no free wandering or roaming! The only exception is when you want your dog to have supervised play time in the backyard (I also play with dogs in my house, you may or may not choose to). We will discuss your specific dog in the session, in regards to play.  He will either be in a Place or Down, of your choosing, and will not move unless he is either recalled (“Spot, Come!”), or being released for free time (“Break!”).

Recall (Come)

Your dog should be waiting for the release command “Break” from you before he eats his meal - not jumping the gun, or bothering you as you prepare it or diving for it or knocking it out of your hands.  I tend to feed in the crate because of the number of dogs here, however whether you choose to continue or not the following rules still apply.

You should have your dog in a down, or a sit, and the food will be placed in front of him.

Wait for good calm eye contact before you give the release command “Break" with the dog not staring at the food – their focus should be on you.

The following video is an example of how Waiting for Food works. Note that your dog has already gone throughout the training process of this exercise, and will most likely just need reminders - you can see the final product (where your dog should be) at around time ________:

WAITING FOR FOOD VIDEO (Put a video here)

Training homework

Using the recall to a command (Place or Down)

Your dog will wait at all thresholds - car doors, front doors, gates, going into the crate, etc. - we want him tuned in and focused on you, not on his excitement or anticipation of going into the car/out of the house/for a walk, etc. We cannot stress enough how important this is to setting the tone for the rest of your relationship and life together - a dog who is respectful before going outside is much more respectful on the walk.

The following video is an example of how thresholds work. Note that your dog has already gone throughout the training process of this exercise, and will most likely just need reminders - you can see the final product (where your dog should be) at around time ____________ and on:

THRESHOLDS VIDEO (Put a video here) - working on it.

Also on this webpage is the E-collar Basics guide, in which you can get a good feel of the E-collar and how it works. You should be VERY familiar with that document to insure a much more efficient, informative follow-up session. It is very important that you do your homework so we can get the most out of our time. I would much rather spend our time on the nuance of your dog's training and behavior and how to live with him/her than the technical part of the e-collar basic guidelines and functions.

Kennel/Crate

The walk is a structured leadership conversation between you and your dog.

Use 90/10 rule on the walks - 90% of the time, dog is walking in a structure heel; 10% released out on a longer leash to potty/sniff - you can use “Break”, “Go Potty” or anything else that you want to use – I use “Hurry”.

No sniffing, marking, targeting/staring at other dogs, or pulling to trees without you inviting the break.  No dogs should ever meet other dogs on leash - you never know about the other dog - even if you feel like that dog appears mellow/safe.  A dog trapped on a leash is the quickest way to cause tension and a negative interaction – which will result in your dog distrusting you and other dogs – not to mention the possible financial repercussions from a fight.

Place is a mat/bed/other object that your dog will go to, on your command, and stay there until released.

The command is “Place” - you will say it when your dog is about one foot from the Place mat/bed, not when he is already on it.

Down can be anywhere - you do not need a place mat/bed. This can be used outside or inside, anywhere of your choosing. You can also put your dog in a Down on the Place mat/bed if he doesn’t do it automatically.

The command is “Down” - you will say it when your dog gets all the way to your feet, not when he is in motion.

Feeding your dog

This is a work in progress so a lot of the videos I’m going to shoot are mentioned but not completed – apologies - I will get to it.

Walk

Trust the training - your dog has all the right skills - you just have to consistently enforce them.

The E-Collar should be a snug fit. We have sized, fit, and marked the collar for you and again the only time the size should change is if your dog gains or looses weight.  If you are having trouble getting the correct fit you might consider a bungee collar for your receiver.

The E-Collar will be worn whenever you are home supervising, and on the walks. When you are not home, and your dog is in the crate, the E-Collar will come off.  It can be charged at that time, if you like.

On walks, the E-Collar goes right below the prong collar, above the flat collar (with the tags), and the carabiner or coupler on the prong affixes to the flat buckle collar over the e-collar strap.

Please refer to the E-collar basics page for help on how to plug it in/charge it, where the box should be on the neck, how often to move the box around, how to turn it off/on, the modes, etc. Everything on the E-collar basics page is very important.

Unless we tell you otherwise, your dog will be sleeping in the kennel/crate, and in the kennel/crate when you are not home to supervise in order to keep him safe and not learning bad habits.  All tools (E-collar, Prong collar) will come off when your dog is in the kennel/crate. You can add bedding, etc., but be cautious that your dog is not inclined to ingest it and durable toys.  Also, watch for cords, etc., outside of the crate that could be pulled in and chewed on/destroyed.

Your dog should wait respectfully to come out of his crate.  He should never charge out.


The following video is an example of how Kennel/Crate works. Note that your dog has already gone through the training process of this exercise, and will most likely just need reminders - you can see the final product (where your dog should be) at time __________:

KENNEL/CRATE VIDEO (Put a video here)

As you might expect, the initial reaction/greeting is very important.  It is best that you ignore your dog until Sarah (that's me) gives you the A-OK! I know it will be hard, but it’s best, as your dog will be adjusting back to being around you, with their old habits, etc. We want to create as little distinction between how they are with us and how they are with you.

This return visit is to transfer all of the good information and structure to you, but it is also the time where we show your dog that the same rules apply at your place as they do at our place. As they are used to having a little more freedom and making different choices in your presence, we are more than likely going to see old behaviors during the session. Do not be discouraged or surprised by this! It is perfectly normal for us to work through some behavior issues - in fact, if everything goes perfect right away, I will be very surprised! It is our job as a team to show your dog that things have changed around you as well, and they are so patterned by being at our place that the adjustment period will be relatively seamless.

Working around the house

The prong collar should have a snug fit and at the top of the neck to be most effective. I have sized and fit the prong for you so unless your dog gains or looses weight then it should be correct.

You will only be using the prong when you take your dog out on leash (for a walk, to the car, etc.) - at all other times, it will remain off the dog if you have done an e-collar residency program.  If you have done an prong collar residency program then the prong collar and leash will remain on your dog anytime you can directly supervise the dog (not in kennel, loose in yard, at night or when taking a shower).

On walks, the prong will go above the e-collar, right behind the ears, under the jaw.

Make sure it does not get twisted when you put it on!

The leash clips to the swivel D-ring on the prong.  The carabiner or coupler attaches to the non-swiveling O-Ring on the prong, and then goes over the e-collar strap to affix to the flat buckle collar (the collar with the tags). Make sure that the carabiner or coupler goes UNDER the chain with the leash attached, not over, as that would affect the action of the prong.

The reality is the better you are prepared - knowledge-wise and skill-wise - the better your dog is going to be. I have done most of the heavy lifting for you in the board and train program, but even with all the patterning and work, your dog’s success will still be largely dependent on your efforts.

With so much to cover in the go-home sessions, I have prioritized the more complex and valuable work, and are depending on you to learn the more simple rules and basics.  But don’t worry we’ll have multiple sessions to make sure you’ve got it all.

Even though it is long I would urge you to study and read this multiple times!

Residency Board & Train Homework