Logo for A Better Companion Dog Training

You will charge the collar using a splitter cable - one wire will go into the back of the e-collar box, one will go into the back of the remote. If you have the collar on most of the day, we suggest charging it for two hours every other day.

ecollar setup

Charging the e-collar

Like a leash pop on a prong collar, the level that you correct your dog at will change in direct proportion to the level of intensity your dog is exhibiting, or the level of distraction in the environment.

For instance, if you are working your dog on Place and Down inside the house, you will most likely only need to correct at the lowest corrective level. However, if a guest comes into your house, you will most likely need to go beyond that level to get through to the dog.

And, of course, if your dog is tearing down the street towards a busy intersection, chasing a cat, it is likely that they will only respond when the dial is turned up considerably - 40-60-80-100? Don't focus on the number, focus on your dog and his reaction/willingness to change behavior.

It is imperative to NOT get stuck on the number on the dial!!   As intensity and adrenaline increases, so does the dog’s threshold for feeling the stimulation of the collar - if they are not responding to a correction by changing their behavior, the collar is not at a level significant enough for them to take seriously.

EXCEPTION: If the collar is too loose, or if it is not high up on her neck, the dog will most likely not be getting proper contact, and the stimulation will not do its job.  Always check the fit.

Improper fit is also dangerous because you may think your dog is intense, or blowing off the correction, so you keep dialing up - then suddenly, the dog moves its head and the collar makes contact at a level way too high for the infraction. So that brings us to...

  • Timing is everything! You want to catch your dog at the first moment of the infraction, if possible - there is much more value and learning in a correction that happens as soon as the dog makes a bad choice.  You do not need to wait until a dog lunges on a walk – you can correct for thinking about lunging.  You do not need to wait until a dog jumps up on the counter to steal your pizza– you can correct for thinking about jumping up.  You do not need to wait for your dog to leave place – you can correct for getting up and even whining because you know it’s the step before he decides to leave place.
  • If you have waited too long to correct or you’ve missed the amp-ing up stage please realize that sometimes no level of intensity will be enough (such as your dog is already reacting/lunging at another dog or person) – cut your losses and try again later with more distance and awareness.
  • If your dog seems unsure, or confused after you give a command, try closing the distance - walk closer, and then give the command again and if very confused use leash pressure to help him figure it out.
  • Do not get mentally stuck on a number on the dial - if you are not meeting or exceeding the distraction level or intensity of the dog with the level you are using, you will be ineffective. Your dog will tell you what level is effective by changing his behavior, not by getting to a pre-set number in your mind.  The dial has 100 levels for a reason - use them as necessary.


E-collar Basics

Things to remember

Fitting the e-collar

Trust the training

and your skills!

All commands are to be said in a matter-of-fact, calm tone of voice. If you are unsure what that sounds like please ask to hear how we say them. It is important that you match our tone to the best of your ability and without shouting! The commands are basic – Heel, Let’s Go, Come, Place, Down, No, Sit and Break.

Heel – This is used when you want the dog to walk at your side at your pace with the dog’s head parallel with your thigh.

Let’s Go – This is used when you want the dog to move with your direction of travel but not in a formal heel.  Example: moving Spot from Sit through the front door before sitting again so that you can close the door.

Come - While working your dog on the e-collar inside the house, you will chain the commands together with the recall command "Come". This is also the only command where you will say the dog's name prior to the command. For example:

"Spot, come”

(Spot heads in your direction)

Then you will follow with the next command, which will most likely be Place or Down.

Place - This is used only for a mat or bed that the dog will lay down on. They may not get up or leave that mat without the release "Let's Go” or “Break” or “Come”.

You will say this command when your dog is about a foot away from the Place (mat/ bed), so that they have time to make the choice to step onto the Place.

If you say the command too early, and you have several Place areas in your house, the dog might get confused to which Place you mean. Conversely, if you say the command when the dog is already on the mat or bed, they have made the decision themselves without listening to you, and we want them to be in the habit of listening to you!

You say this command after you have recalled the dog to you and the Place. Example:

"Spot, come"

Spot heads in your direction - once he is about a foot away from the Place...


Spot goes to the mat.

Down - This can be done anywhere, and does not need to be on a mat or bed. You say this command after you have recalled the dog to you. Example:

"Spot, come"

Spot heads in your direction - once he is at your feet...


Spot lays down.

No - This will be used if your dog breaks command (walks off place, gets out of a down, etc). You will pair this with a pop on the e-collar and then follow with the original command. Example:

Spot gets up from a Down.

“No (correction)… Down.”

Spot lays back down.

Sit - This is primarily used on walks or for other short-duration behaviors, like waiting for food, waiting before going into the crate, before going through doors, etc.

Break – Dog has free time until another command is given - it is a time for a dog to be a dog.

The collar must be as snug as where we marked it, high up on the neck. If you are using it along with the prong collar, it should go right below the prong collar.

The box on the collar should be slightly offset on one side of the dog's neck or the other. When you are home and your dog is wearing the collar, switch the box from one side to the other every 3-4 hours to avoid pressure sores.

Mini Educator 1/2 mile remote dog trainer ET-300

Operation of the e-collar

1) Continuous Stimulation Button - (Red) It sends continuous stimulation to collar as long as the button is held down or until the automatic time out at 10 seconds. This is the only button you will be concerned with!

  • This is generally pressed once as a “Tap” at the corrective level if your dog breaks command or does an unwanted behavior (jumping up, mouthing, etc). Think of it like a leash pop correction.
  • If you hold it down, it will only give stimulation for 10 seconds (in the unlikely case that you sit on it or something...which you will never do...)  This is generally used to teach behaviors at a lower level.

2) Momentary Stimulation Button - (Black) It sends a quick/momentary 1/100 second stimulation to the collar - don’t worry about this button!

3) Stimulation Dial - This goes from 1-100. We will give you an idea of the level you will use primarily with your dog, with headway above that number for higher intensity situations.

4) Battery/Power Light - This light will tell you three things:

  • Whether or not the collar is turned on - if the light on the collar is blinking green, it is on. Face the box OUT on your dogs’ neck so you can see whether this is blinking or not.
  • The battery status of the collar - if it is blinking GREEN, it’s fully or adequately charged, AMBER medium charge, and RED needs to charge. It is very important that the collar is sufficiently charged.
  • It will also turn RED every time you use a stimulation button to show you that it is working.

5) Magnetic Power Switch - To turn the collar ON/OFF, you put the similar red dot on the lower right side of remote to this red dot.

6) Vibration Button - It sends vibration to the collar. No need to use this button unless your dog is deaf and you need to teach a look at me command - be aware that most dogs quickly lern to ignore the vibration but it can also freak some dogs out unnecessarily.

7) On/Off & Light Button - ON/OFF RECEIVER: Hold button down for 2 seconds. LIGHT: Hold down for 0.5 seconds to turn the collar’s white light on/off.

8) Mode Button - Pressing this button will change the settings of your collar - we want to make sure the settings remain the way we sent home with you, with the LCD screen on the front of the remote always reading M - C.

9) Charging Ports - one on the back of the remote, and one on the back of the e-collar box. It is very important that these remain closed when not charging so that your collar and receiver remain waterproof.

Wearing the e-collar

The E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator ET-300 is a low-medium power E-collar built for small to medium-sized dogs.  The dial goes from 1-100 and is effective for most dogs (even the big guys).  It's technology is based upon the blunt stimulation of a TENS unit (Transcutaneous Electrical Nerve Stimulation) which is used in humans for pain relief and muscle stimulation - basically it stimulates the muscle to flex or contract.

Dog training - helping YOUR dog make

Life Appropriate Choices!

Whenever you are supervising, you can leave the collar on. It comes off when: you leave the house, the dog goes in the crate, and at night - just make sure to move it every few hours to ensure pressure sores do not develop beneath the contact points or.  The collar should also be removed after the dog has gotten wet in order to allow the hair and skin to dry - nobody likes being wet under the collar.

Using the e-collar

Lastly, remember, that dogs are not generalists - they learn each command and behavior in a specific place or situation.   Whenever you introduce a new person, a new dog, or new environment, be prepared for possible challenges and problems.  These new distractions often need to be worked through and problem solved like earlier training exercises.  Be patient, and work through it.  Dogs must be retaught in each new situation until they have built up enough experiences to generalize their behavior.